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At
some point you may be faced with the prospect of caring for an
orphaned kitten. This may be a result of a queen (mother cat)
having more kittens than she can care for, having passed away,
rejecting the kittens or you may find a motherless
kitten.
What
should you do if you find an orphaned or feral kitten? First,
get the kitten indoors to a warm, safe place.
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Warmth/Cold:
Depending on the situation, you may have to warm up or cool down
the kitten.
Too Cold: Make sure the temperature is
warm but not too hot as to burn the kitten.
Kittens can't shiver for the first two weeks of their life, so
it is hard to gauge if they are too cold. It is very
important to keep your kitten warm and near you as much as
possible. Holding
the kitten close to your body will not only warm her, but she
will also be comforted by your heartbeat.
Too
Hot: If your kitten is overheated remove the kitten from the
heat source & slowly decrease the temperature. Gently wipe the
kitten's body with a cool, damp (but not wet) cloth.
What you will
need: Bottles, nipples, bottle cleaning brush, kitten formula,
nesting box, heat pad, old towels. In an emergency, a syringe (with
the needle removed) can be used to give milk to the cat.
Giving
Milk: Ideally, the best milk for a kitten is it's own mother's
milk. However, if the mother is unable to nurse the kitten a foster
mother is the second best choice. If there is a foster mother
available, her kittens should be no more than 14 days older than the
orphaned kitten. A foster mother isn't always possible, so you
will have to hand raise the kitten using an artificial formula,
designed especially for use on kittens.
This, along with bottles and droppers for feeding, can
usually be found in the cat food aisle of most supermarkets or pet
stores. If you can’t
find any, a veterinarian can usually provide you with a formula for
kittens.
Wash
your hands & sterilise
all feeding equipment. Young kittens, especially orphaned ones who
don't have the benefit of antibodies transferred from the mother's
milk to the kitten, are particularly vulnerable to infection so care
must be taken when preparing formula. Carefully follow directions on the box of formula or directions
provided by your vet to determine the proper temperature and amount
to feed your kitten. You
will need to know your
kitten’s approximate age and weight in
order to give the right amount of formula. Giving
too much or too little formula can kill the kitten. For this reason, it also very
important that you make the right size hole in the nipple of the
feeding bottle. If you can squeeze a small drop from the upturned
bottle, you have made the right sized hole. Milk
should be at body temperature (around 38C), check the milk isn't too hot or cold
by squeezing a drop or two onto your wrist. Gently place the
kitten on it's stomach, open the mouth with a finger & slip the
nipple in. To encourage suckling, gently stroke the kitten's throat
in a downward motion. Hold the bottle at a 45% angle.
Feeds
should be every 2 - 3 hours,
around the clock.
Caution:
When formula feeding, be careful to ensure the formula doesn't
get inhaled by the kitten. Don't squeeze the bottle, this will force
too much milk into the kitten's mouth, possibly causing choking or
aspiration. Seek veterinary advice on how to properly &
safely bottle feed a kitten.
Do not re-use left over milk.
Do not use cow's milk.
Emergency milk replacement:
If you don't have any milk on hand, you will need to make up some
emergency milk. Below is one such recipe kindly supplied by a
breeder:
1 can condensed milk
2 cans water
1 small container cream
3 egg yolks
2 tbl spoons honey
After
feeding your kitten formula you may need to burp it. To do
this, hold the kitten upright against your shoulder &
gently pat it on the back.
Bedding:
Cardboard boxes are insolating and therefore a good
place to make a bed for your kitten.
Place a towel in the bottom of the box along with a hot
water bottle or a heating pad. Ensure that the bedding doesn't
have strings & threads which may entangle the kitten. Bedding
will need to be changed regularly, to maintain proper hygiene.
Ensure the box is in a quiet, draft free spot. Kittens are unable to
regulate their body temperature for the first week or two, so it is
important the kitten has a source of warmth. Hot water bottled or
heat lamps can be used to keep the kitten warm, but it is important
to keep a regular check of the temperature to ensure it's not too
hot or cold for the kitten. Newborns require a temperature of 89-93F.
Toileting:
Rub and pet her gently to simulate the mother cat’s
tongue.
It
is also important to know that a kitten cannot urinate or defecate
on her own until she is about three weeks old.
The mother cat licks the kitten’s belly and bottom in order
to stimulate elimination. You
will have to provide this stimulation for your kitten by gently
rubbing these areas with a warm, damp washcloth.
It is usually recommended this be done both before and after
the kitten has eaten.
Weaning: The
weaning process can begin around 4 weeks of age. Start out
slowly by mixing baby food (check the ingredients to make sure the
food contains no onion as this is toxic to cats) canned or dry cat
food in with some kitten formula. Not all kittens will take to food
immediately, so patience is important. Introduce a small amount
initially. You can introduce solids either by placing a small amount
of food on your finger or in a cat bowl. As the kitten eats
more solid food, gradually decrease the amount of formula it
has.
Water:
Kittens will begin to drink water from 5 - 6 weeks of age.
Parasites: It is important to ensure the orphaned kitten is parasite
free. Fleas & worms can cause anaemia, which can lead to death.
Remove fleas using a flea comb. Seek veterinary advice on products
which can be used on very young kittens to treat both fleas &
intestinal worms.
Dehydration:
Kittens dehydrate rapidly. Dehydration is very serious & can
lead to death if left untreated. Signs of dehydration include sunken
eyes, loss of skin elasticity, lethargy, dry gums. To check for
dehydration at home, gently grasp the skin between the cat's
shoulders & raise it. It should spring back immediately, if this
doesn't happen it may be a sign your kitten is dehydrated. If
you suspect your kitten is dehydrated seek veterinary attention
urgently.
Weighing/Record
keeping: It is important to keep a log of your kitten's weight
to ensure it is gaining weight properly. Kittens should double their
birth weight in the first 7 - 10 days. It is also encouraged to keep
a log of when feeds were made, how much was given etc.
Love
& Attention: Your kitten will need plenty of love &
attention. When it's not sleeping, ensure you give it lots of
physical contact.
Toilet
Training: You can begin toilet training your kitten the same
time you introduce solids. To do so, after it's meal place it in the
litter tray & gently scrape it's front paw in the litter. For
further information on toilet training kittens read
here.
Related
articles:
Adopting a
Kitten or Cat,
Bringing Your New Kitten Home,
Essential Products for Kitten Owners,
Kitten
Developmental Milestones,
Raising Orphaned Kittens,
Toilet
Training Kittens,
Kitten
Proofing Your Home
Please note:
The medical
articles on this site have not been written by a
veterinarian & should not be considered a replacement for a
veterinarian visit. The articles are provided for
informative purposes only.
Always seek
immediate veterinary advice for any problems (health or
behavioral) in your pets.
While great
care has been made in the creation of these articles, we
cannot guarantee the accuracy or omissions on these pages.
If in any doubt whatsoever, seek professional medical
advice. |